Finesse’
is a word I should use more often when I talk about restaurants. I know this
because it has been used recently by one of my culinary heroes. Thomas Keller is
widely ~ and rightly ~ acknowledged as one of the best chefs in the world. He is
not only a genius at the stoves; he is also a man full of creativity and
original thought. When he speaks about what makes a great restaurant, we should
all take notice. This is what he said in a speech to the California Restaurant
Association: “Finesse is so important to me that we have plaques on the walls of
The French Laundry and Per Se kitchens that spell out the definition:
‘refinement and delicacy of performance, execution or artisanship’.” I am
therefore delighted to report that, on my last visit to The French Laundry, I
found finesse all around.
Yountiville
is one of the prettiest towns in the Napa Valley. I am happy to wander up and
down its flower-bedecked streets. But I am happier still when I am on my way to
The French Laundry. The prospect of any restaurant with three Michelin stars
pleases me, but this particular dining room has given me so much joy over the
years that I now regard it as a friend ~ an elegant, witty and exquisitely
turned-out friend (which, after all, is the best sort). This is partly because
the people who look after me here are so charming and so professional, and
partly because the food and drink on offer are so good that each meal is
positively life-enhancing.
The building is discreet. At one time, it was, indeed, a laundry. Two stories of
stone and a pretty garden are all we see ~ although, be assured, a mighty
kitchen is tucked away,
out
of sight. There is a degree of serenity about the place, which is as it should
be. I was greeted in the entrance hall by the maitre d’, Lawrence Nadeau ~ as
always, suave, dapper and friendly. He spoke to me the words I like to hear:
“You are at your usual table.” And so I was ~ table number five, next to the
wall in the downstairs room. I settled myself comfortably, as a spotlight shone
onto the white damask and the Riedel glasses before me sparkled in its beam.
Around, my well-dressed fellow diners murmured contentedly. (The restaurant
insists that there be no jeans, t-shirts, shorts or tennis shoes ~ thank
goodness.) The waiters, smart in their dark suits, arranged French cutlery and
replaced the napkins of those who left their places for a moment. Throughout my
evening in this calm and intimate space, I was looked after exceptionally well
by Dennis Kelly, one of the service captains.
The French Laundry is not in the business of serving breathless meals to those
are in a hurry. Its pace is measured and its plates are numerous. Mr Keller
offers two set menus of nine courses ($240), one with meat and fish and one of
vegetables. Nowadays, I find these a little too much for me, so I confined
myself to ‘just’ seven courses. But they were seven courses of unalloyed
pleasure. I began with a masterpiece of delicate gastronomy ~ caviar with green
apple granité. Bright, refreshing and yet still luscious and satisfying, this
was the perfect opening movement to a mighty symphony. Then came one of my
favourite dishes, the truffled egg. Within an egg shell was egg custard
flavoured with white truffle, topped with ragoût of black truffle. I have eaten
this dish on every visit to the French Laundry, and I adore its rich and
satisfying flavours. On this occasion I drank with it a 1969 madeira (D’Oliveira,
Sercial - $53, glass), which matched its luxuriance very well indeed. This was
recommended by the sommelier, Christopher Hoel ~ a most knowledgeable fellow,
who, as we shall see, is not afraid to experiment.
Next was lobster ~ soft and tender, with its flavour brilliantly set off by the
sharpness of peach. Here was a superb confection, made even better by the
accompanying white burgundy. (This was a Meursault. The list has 56 ~ ranging in
price from the 2005 from Domaine Matrot at $105 to the 1982 ‘Les Charmes’ from
Comtes Lafon at $1,200.)
Breast of pigeon and foie gras now appeared, each cooked to perfection and each
adding to the pleasure yielded by its companion. And now, too, came Mr Hoel’s
experiment. He brought me two wines: a red from the Rhône for the pigeon and a
sweet white from Hungary for the foie gras. I applauded the bravery of this
experiment; but, like many experiments, it did not work. The tastes of the
different foods mixed wonderfully in my mouth, as the chef had intended. But
wines must be drunk separately, and to drink two such different wines
alternately with one dish confused rather than delighted my palate. Interesting,
but not to be repeated, I think. Still, ten out of ten to Mr Hoel for his
boldness. (The sweet white was 2002 Királyudvar, Tokaji Cuvée, ‘Ilona’ - $38,
glass. The red was a Côte Rôtie. The list has 31, ranging in price from $130 for
the 2002 from Patrick Jasmin to £1,845 for the 1983 ‘La Landonne’ fom Guigal.)
Juicy
Wagyu beef now catered fully for my carnivore instincts. Then it was cheese, and
the ending to which I had been looking forward: coffee and doughnuts. Like the
truffled egg, this is one of Mr Keller’s most inspired inventions and one which
I could not bear to omit from a meal here. ‘Cinnamon-sugared doughnuts with
cappuccino semi-freddo’ is the official description. I defy anyone who likes
puddings not to find this one absolutely, ravishingly delicious.
A great restaurant must have a great cellar. The list at the French Laundry
lists over two thousand of the world’s finest bottles, and I have no hesitation
in recommending that you trust the guidance of Sommelier Christopher Hoel to
direct you to that combination of quality and good value most of us seek. For
those of you with deep pockets, however, think for a moment of white burgundy,
claret and red burgundy. Here you can choose between 18 Montrachets (including
2005 DRC at $6,765), 1961 Latour ($5,000), 1961 Mouton Rothschild ($4,800), 1982
Pétrus ($7,500) and 2005 Romanée-Conti ($10,045).
So, what about a word to sum up the French Laundry? Ah yes, I have it ~ finesse.
© 2008 Francis Bown. Used by
permission. All rights reserved. For reviews of hotels and restaurants across
the world, visit
www.BownsBest.com
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